Oils, Additives, & Cosmetic Ingredient Information

OILS, ADDITIVES & COSMETIC INGREDIENT INFORMATION

Oils & Butters

All oils and fats are complex compounds called triglycerides. All oils and fats are a mixture of triglycerides with a different fatty acid attached. To further explain, an oil molecule is formed from one glycerin molecule and three fatty acid molecules. All fatty acid molecules are lipophinic and hydrophilic. Lipophilic means that it has a great affinity for oil. Hydrophilic means that it has a great affinity for water. The glycerin component of an oil or fat is an alcohol with three locations on its molecule where the hydrophilic molecule of the fatty acids attaches. The best oils contain essential fatty acids because these cannot be synthesized in the human body. The most important are linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids.

Aloe Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil / Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract) Aloe butter is a proprietary cosmetic "butter" developed exclusively for cosmetic purposes. Aloe butter is an extract of aloe vera, aloe barbadensis, in a coconut fatty fraction. It is solid at room temperature, but melts on the skin. Can be used for cutaneous dryness, to moisturize after sun exposure. Suitable for a variety of skin care applications for lotions, soaps, skin creams and lip balms to enhance moisturization and to gain the properties of Aloe. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 3-5% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 3-6% Conditioners: 2-5%

Almond, Sweet (Prunus amygdalus) Sweet almond oil is pressed from almond kernels. The almond tree is cultivated in Southern Europe, the Mediterranean countries and California. It consist mainly of oleic acid (69%), essential unsaturated fatty acids (25%), sterolins (.5 to 1%) and vitamin E (about 10 IU per ounce. A light nearly odorless oil. Sweet almond oil is said to have great nutritional value for all skin types. Has a similar make up to baby’s sebum, the oil naturally produced by the skin to protect it and is easily absorbed. Contain glucosides, minerals, and vitamins and is rich in protein. Sweet almond oil has very little natural smell and can be used as a perfume base. It was highly valued by the Egyptians for cosmetic purposes.

Apricot Kernel (Prunus armeniaca) Apricot kernel oil comes from the large pits of apricots that yield up to 45% oil. The apricot tree is cultivated throughout the Northern Hemisphere. Apricot kernel oil has 30% unsaturated essential fatty acid content. The oil is similar in weight to human sebum. Extremely nourishing to the skin and excellent around the eyes and neck. Apricot kernel oil is an emollient. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health does help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima) Avocado butter is obtained from the fruit of the avocado tree (Persea Gratissima) which grows in sub-tropical regions of the world. The butter is created from the avocado fruit oil through a unique hydrogenation process, which yields a soft, greenish butter. It has a mild odor and excellent melting properties, which is suitable for skin care. May be used in all types of soap and toiletries to improved moisturization and soften rough, dry skin. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 3-5% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 3-6% Conditioners: 2-5%

Avocado Oil (Persea americana) Avocado oil is made from the pulp of the avocado fruit. It is a rich, heavy but penetrating oil that is full of nutritive and therapeutic components. Avocado oil contains more than 20 % essential unsaturated fatty acids. It contains vitamins A, C, D and E, proteins, beta-carotene, lecithin, fatty acids and the "youth mineral" potassium. Avocado oil is high in unsaponifiables (sterolins) which are reputed to be beneficial in reducing age spots, healing scars and moisturizing the upper layers of the skin. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age spots. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

A 1991 study at the Department of Food Engineering and Biotechnology, Technion-Israel Institute of Technology found that treatment with avocado oil significantly increases the water soluble collagen content in the dermis, which effects the age of the skin. Avocado is used in many folk medicines as an aphrodisiac. Avocado oil is an emollient and very stable. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health it does help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. Said to help protect the skin from ultraviolet rays.

Black Currant Seed Oil (Ribes nigrum) Obtained from the fruit of the Ribes nigrum, grown in Europe. High in fatty acids, especially in GLA. Said to help damaged skin and aid in the reconstruction of cell membranes.

Borage Oil (Borago officinalis) Obtained from the seed of Borago officinalis, which grows abundantly in the Mediterranean region, Central Europe and Asia. Has an extremely high gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important function in the body, especially the skin. Borage oil also has the highest known content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. These are great skin conditioners. They regulate the hydration of the skin and are humectants.

Castor Oil (Ricinus communis) Castor oil is extracted from the seeds of the castor plant. Commonly used commercially in 50% of lipsticks in the United States. Creates a protective barrier on the skin and is soothing. It is mainly composed of ricinoleic acid (87%), a fatty acid with a unusual molecular structure. Also known as Palm Christi Oil. Helps stablize lather and keep soda ash at bay in soap recipes.

Castor, Sulfated (Ricinus communis) Commonly known as "Turkey Red", sulfated castor oil is created by adding sulfuric acid to castor oil. The resulting oil is water-soluble making it perfect for bath oil blends.

Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao) Cocoa butter is the solid fat expressed from the roasted seed of the cocoa seed AKA beans. The cocoa tree is cultivated in most tropical countries and is native to South America. It is highly protective and acts as a water repellant. It contains about 5 IU of vitamin E per ounce. Cocoa Butter softens and lubricates the skin. If it smells like chocolate to you that is because it is the by-product from the manufacturing of cocoa and chocolate. The scent can be overwhelming in recipes but you can use deodorized cocoa butter if it is offensive to you. May be used in a variety of cosmetic, toiletry and pharmaceutical applications to reduce cutaneous dryness and improve skin flexibility. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 3-5% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 3-6% Conditioners: 2-5%

Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera) Coconut oil is expressed from coconut kernels. Coconut is solid at temperatures below 76 degrees. Also available in higher degree oils. This highly saturated fat contains twice the heavy fats as lard. Coconut oil is commonly used to promote lather in soaps and gel. Wonderfully emollient and has cooling properties. Available in various degrees.

Cottonseed Oil (Gossypium hirsutum, barbadense) Small trees that grow wild in the tropical regions of both hemispheres and grown commercially. The oil comes from the seed that is embedded in the cotton fiber. The oil contains about 20 IU of vitamin E per ounce and has a 39% essential unsaturated fatty acid content.

Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothers bennis) Evening primrose oil is taken from the seeds of the evening primrose. The name comes from the fact that its flowers blossom in the evening and wither in the day. Evening primrose oil has high gamma linoliec acid, which is an essential polyunsaturated fatty acid that is converted into prostaglandins and hormones. Because evening primrose oil has an extremely high gamma linolenic acid (GLA) content it has been extensively researched. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important function in the body, especially the skin. Linoliec acid is said to rejuvenated skin cells. Evening primrose is full of vitamins and minerals. It also repairs damaged skin, keeps skin healthy, helps repair sun damaged and mature skin. Evening primrose oil is an emollient. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health does help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

Flax Seed Oil (Linum usitatissimum) Flaxseed oil is pressed from the seeds of the flax plant. It has a high concentration of omega-3 essential fatty acids. It has a superpolyunsaturated nature and is very unstable. It must be refrigerated. Commonly used for eczema, psoriasis, burns, inflammatory skin and other skin conditions.

Grapeseed Oil (Vitis vinifera) Grapeseed oil is made from the seeds of wine producing grapes. The lightest of oils and virtually odorless. Contains vitamins, minerals, high in polyunsaturates and protein. Grapeseed oil is wonderful used around the eyes and neck. Widely used in hypoallergenic natural products because it does not often cause allergic reactions in the highly allergic.

Hazelnut Oil (Corylus avellana) Hazelnut oil is extracted from hazelnuts. It penetrates the skin easily. It has some vitamin E content. Cold pressed hazelnut oil is a wonderful light, penetrating oil that is slightly astringent making it a good oil for acne prone skin. It is high in the essential fatty acids and is soothing and healing to dry irritated skin. Studies have shown that it can filter sunrays and is therefore commonly used in sun care products. A good oil for massage, hair care and cream/lotion formulas.

Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis sativa) Hemp seed oil is extracted from the seeds of the Cannabis sativa plant. To most people Cannabis sativa is synonymous with marijuana; the Latin name translates to "useful hemp." Because of this we are often asked if our hemp oil is legal. The oil itself is perfectly legal. There is no tetrahydrocannabinol in the final product of hemp oil. Hemp contains proteins and high quality fat. Hemp has a remarkable fatty acid profile. It is high in omega-3 and a 1.7% gamma-linolenic acid. It is 57% linoleic and 19% linoleic acids. Hemp is a wonderful oil for dry or mature skin since it is said to help stimulate cell growth. It has high levels of essential fatty acids, including linolenic acid. Natural hemp seed oil is dark green and has a nutty rich scent. Hemp seed oil is an emollient. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health emollients help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. Hemp seed has a lot of minerals and is good for the skin and hair.

Jojoba Oil, Golden (Simmondsia chinensis) Jojoba oil is cold pressed from the nuts of the jojoba tree. The jojoba tree is cultivated in California, Arizona, Mexico and Israel. Jojoba is pronounced Ho Ho Ba. Native Americans have been using jojoba for centuries. The first record of jojoba is from 1701. Father Junipero Serrra found that Native Americans were using Jojoba to treat sores, cuts, burns, as a conditioner and for all over skin and hair treatments.

Jojoba is technically not an oil, but a liquid wax ester with a long unsaturated carbon chains. Chemically it resembles sperm whale oil or spermaceti oil. It was a popular ingredient in creams. In the 1970´s the United States banned all sperm whale products because they were contributing to the extinction of sperm whales. In 1977 domestic commercial jojoba oil cultivation began because it is the natural substitute for spermaceti, which in other cases has been replaced by synthetic products. Jojoba esters are composed of straight chain alcohols. The acid and the alcohol portions have 20 or 22 carbon atoms and one unsaturated bond. It resembles human sebum; the natural coating our body produces to protect the skin and keeps it supple. Jojoba is skin therapy; our skin loses sebum with age, sun, wind, cold, and the environment. IT Contains protein, minerals and a waxy substance that mimics collagen. Jojoba is perfect for any skin type it has a large molecular structure. Jojoba can help dry or oily skin. If your skin has an over production of sebum jojoba oil will dissolve clogged pores and restore the skin to its natural pH balance. The reason jojoba oil works so well it actually penetrates the skin because it is accepted as sebum.

Although jojoba oil is very expensive it does have a long shelf life; it will never break down or go rancid. Jojoba is expensive because it can take up to 1200 nuts to get one pond of jojoba nuts, which have a 50% yield of oil. Because jojoba has very little scent it works as a wonderful natural perfume base. Jojoba is not greasy and absorbs right into the skin. JMC Technologies has conducted scientific research proving that jojoba can increase skin softness by up to 37%, it reduces superficial lines and wrinkles up to 25% upon application and up to 11% after 8 hours. Jojoba oil is hypoallergenic and pure.

Kokum Butter, (Garcinia Indica) Kokum butter is obtained from the fruit of the Garcina indica tree grown in India. It has a triglyceride composition that is uniform and consist of up to 80% stearic-oleic-stearic (SOS) triglycerides. Kokum butter has excellent emollient properties and high oxidative stability, which assists emulsion integrity. It is a solid, stable hard butter, which melts on contact with skin. Prevents skin dryness and said to reduce the development of wrinkles. Reduces degeneration of skin cells and restores flexibility to the skin. It is ideal for lipsticks and balms; it‘s also a great addition to bar soaps and skin lotions. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 1-3% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 2-5% Conditioners: 1-3%

Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites moluccana) Pressed from the nut of the tropical kukui tree, which comes mainly from Hawaii, Tahiti and Malaysia. High in essential fatty acids. Wonderful for sensitive skin, mature, damaged, wrinkled skin. Said to aid in softening and restructuring the skin. High in linoleic and linolenic acids which are essential fatty acids vital for the metabolism of healthy skin. Vitamins A, C and E are added to stabilize the oil. Kukui nut oil is easily absorbed by the skin. A wonderful massage oil. It has been used by the Hawaiians for thousands of years for dry skin, psoriasis and acne.

Macadamia Nut (Macadamia integrifolia) Pressed from the macadamia nut, which is an evergreen tree grown mainly in Hawaii. Macadamia nut oil is similar to sebum, the oil naturally produced by human skin to protect it. Absorbs well into the skin, is highly emollient and soothing. Contains magnesium and thiamin.

Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica) Mango butter is solid and from the seed kernel of mango fruit. The Mango tree is a tropical evergreen tree from India and Malaysia. From its seed a firm "butter" is rendered, suitable for soaps, cosmetics, toiletries and pharmaceuticals. Often when suppliers incorrectly heat or store mango butter it forms little fat granules or crystals that make it feel lumpy. To correct this simply heat it in a double broiler to 170-185 degrees for 30 to 45 minutes. Mango butter exhibits excellent moisturizing for lotions and good lubricity on skin. It melts at skin temperatures making it ideal for sticks, balms and suppositories. It also counters the drying effects of bar soaps and cleansers. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 3-5% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 3-6% Conditioners: 2-5%

Mowrah Butter Refined (Madhucca latifolia) Obtained from the fruit seed kernels of the Madhuca latifolia tree, which grows in India. In India mowrah butter has important commercial value as both a food and cosmetic. Solid at room temperature, but melts with skin contact. Prevents skin dryness and said to reduce the development of wrinkles. Reduces degeneration of skin cells and restores flexibility to the skin.

Neem Oil (Azadriachta indica) Used widely in India as an antibacterial, antiviral. antifungal, antiseptic, antiparasitic agent in toiletries, soap, toothpaste and skin/hair care products. It is used to treat skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, syphilitic sores, chicken pox etc. It can be used to get rid of lice and control dandruff. In toothpaste in helps relieve swollen and bleeding gums and kills the bacteria that cause gingivitis. Neem powder can be used in a foot bath powder to kill fungus and bacteria. Mixed with clay, it makes a great facial for those with acne and other skin problems. Add to liquid soap base for an anti bacterial hand soap. Use in bug repellant lotion bars to keep the bugs away. Use in pet soaps to kill and repel fleas and to treat hot spots. Neem oil can be sprayed on plants to keep insects from devouring the leaves.

Olive (Olea europaea) Olive oil is obtained by crushing and pressing the fruit of the olive tree. The olive tree is native to the Mediterranean area, but can be grown in other tropical and warm areas. The olive tree is an evergreen. An important historic oil used extensively in ancient times. Highly nutritive and stable. Contains protein, minerals and vitamins. Superior penetrating power. It is a yellow or greenish. Has acidic and antioxidant values. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables, which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

Palm (Elaesis guineesis) Palm oil is obtained from the fruit or seed of the palm tree. A rich source of Vitamin A. Palm 106 is a refined, food grade oil. Although it has little contribution to skin care and would not make a nice bar of soap by itself, it makes a nice hard bar when used in combination with other oils such as coconut and olive oil. It is less water-soluble and resists "melting" a do many softer soaps. It saponifies easily and pulls other oils into saponification quicker.

Palm Kernel (Elaeis guineensis) Taken from the palms of the African palm oil tree. Palm kernel oil is very similar to coconut oil in that it has a high percentage of lauric acid, which allows it to produce a hard soap that lathers well. It lends a smooth texture to soap.

Peanut (Arachis hypogaea) Extracted from the nut of the Arachis hypogaea plant. Peanut oil is heavy scented, penetrates the skin well and is often used to increase a products nutritive value. It is super susceptible to fungus and can easily be contaminated. Many people are highly allergic to peanuts and must avoid peanut oil all together.

Pumpkin Seed (Cucurbita maxima) Native Americans used pumpkinseeds to treat enlarged prostate. Herbalist use it as a nonirritating diuretic. Contains fatty oil, albumin, lecithin and phytosterol.

Rose Hip Seed (Rosa mosqueta) Rose Hip oil is extracted from ripened fruit of a hybrid, thorny, wild rosebush native to South American countries. A healing oil that is said to regenerate the skin and counteract the effects of aging. Rose hip oil is a rich source of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, is high in gamma linoliec acid (GLA) and vitamin C. Rose hip oil is often used in products made for stretch marks, burns, scars and mature dry skin. Rose hip seed oil is an emollient and strengthens the hair shaft. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

Safflower (Carthamus tinctoorius) Safflower oil is from an annual plant that is native to Mediterranean countries. It is also grown in Europe and the United States. It can be obtained by pressing or a solvent extraction. Safflower has one of the highest linoleic acid (70%) contents of all oils. The moisture content of human skin is proportional to the content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. Wonderfully moisturizing.

Sal Butter (Shorea robusta) (aka Shorea Butter) Obtained from the fruit kernel of the sal tree grown in India. Contains mainly fatty acids. Has a uniform triglyceride composition with a high oxidative stability due to a very low polyunsaturated fatty acid content. Is extremely emollient, prevents drying and reduces degeneration of skin cells. It is suitable for soaps, cosmetics and toiletries. Due to its uniform triglyceride composition, it exhibits high oxidative and emulsion stability, and good skin softening ability. It melts at skin temperatures making it ideal for sticks and balms. Ideal for bar soaps and skin creams. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 3-5% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 3-6% Conditioners: 2-5%

Sesame (Sesamum inducum) Made from sesame seeds. Contains natural antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, proteins, lecithin and amino acids. From the edible seeds of an East Indian herb. Traditionally used in the healing art of Indian Ayurvedic. Sesame oil is high in unsaponifiables which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars.

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Shea butter is solid and comes from the natural fat obtained from the karite tree grown in West and Central Africa. Often referred to as karite butter. Shea butter is an emollient. It is extremely therapeutic, helping to heal cracked, aged and damaged skin. Its chemical constituents help to heal bruising and soreness. Shea butter penetrates the skin and leaves it feeling soft and smooth. It has vitamin A, E and is highly compatible with skin. Shea butter has a high content of unsaponifiables and cinnamic esters, which have antimicrobial and moisturizing properties and provide protection from the UV rays of the sun. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. Shea butter is expeller pressed without use of solvents, making a lipid suitable for soaps, cosmetics and toiletries. Shea butter is renowned for is skin softening and moisture retaining ability. It melts at skin temperatures making it ideal for lip and body balms as well as bar soaps and lotions. Often when suppliers incorrectly heat or store shea butter it forms little fat granules or crystals that make it feel lumpy. To correct this simply heat it in a double broiler to 170-185 degrees for 30 to 45 minutes. Suggested Use Levels: Lotions & Creams: 3-5% Balms: 5-100% Bar Soaps: 3-6% Conditioners: 2-5%

Soybean (Soya max) The ancient Orient cultivated soybeans for its protein, oil and lecithin content. Currently soybean oil is one of the most important oils produced in the United States. It is pressed from the soybean. Most of the lecithin (phospholipids) used in cosmetics are derived from soybeans. Soybean oil has a very high-unsaturated fatty acid compound, 2% sterolins and 30 IU per ounce of vitamin E. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age spots. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Obtained from the milling of the seeds from the sunflower. It is rich in both vitamins A and E. Sunflower oil is very high in essential fatty acids and helps to moisturize, regenerate and condition the skin. Can be used as a main oil or in a blend. Good for mature, sensitive and dry, damaged skin. Leaves a second "skin" feeling when dry.

Walnut Oil (Juglans nigra) Pressed from the nut of the walnut tree. Walnut oil is high in linoleic acid and helps to regenerate and moisturize damaged dry skin.

Wheat Germ Oil (Triticum vulgare) Wheat germ oil is from the golden germ of the wheat. It is extremely high in vitamin A, B1, D, lecithin, protein, a high content of unsaturated fatty acid compounds and a very high vitamin E content at 250 IU per ounce. Wheat germ oil has a heavy wheat nut scent. A very emollient oil that needs to be blended with other oils to overcome its extremely sticky texture. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

Natural Ingredients

Allantoin (Ureidohydantoin - Comfrey) A non-toxic crystal created by the oxidation of uric acid. Has the ability to help heal wounds, sores and stimulates the growth of healthy tissue. Allantoin is a skin softener and an anti-irritant, which inhibits allergic type responses.

Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis juice) Expressed from the aloe vera plant which are found mainly in sunny climates. The leaves store large amounts of water. Aloe vera improves hydration is soothing and healing to all skin types. Chemical analysis has shown the presence of mucopolysacharides, a natural moisturizing factor. Aloe vera is composed of water, the enzymes catalase and cellulose, minerals, calcium, aluminum, iron, zinc, magnesium, sodium, 20 amino acids and carbohydrates. Aloe vera also contains the "youth mineral" potassium. Has renown healing properties, anti-inflammatory and can soothe the skin and help heal cuts, grazes, burns and insect bites. In 1500 BC the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus recommended aloe for skin care. The Greeks, Chinese, Roman and Arab herbalist recommended aloe for burns and rashes. In the 1930s a radiologist discovered that aloe vera is effective in treating radiation burns. True aloe vera is watery and thin. The products that you see on the marketplace that are thick have been chemically thickened and highly diluted.

Ascorbyl Palmitate (Palmitic acid ester - Vitamin C) A salt of ascorbic acid. It is used as a preservative and antioxidant to prevent rancidity. Vitamin C is thought to prevent collagen break down and help combat the signs of aging. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin. Topical vitamin C may help lighten solar lentigos and melasma. Some studies have shown that topical vitamin C provides additional protection against the harmful effects of the sun. Said to prevent collagen breakdown, which would aid in combating aging. Duke University found that adding Vitamin C and E to sunscreens protects against UVB radiation.

Castille Soap - Castile soap was originally 100% olive oil soap. It got its name from the Castile region in Spain. Extremely mild, liquid with water like consistency. Made from olive oil and sodium hydroxide.

Calciferol (Vitamin D) Calciferol is said to have skin-healing properties. Is absorbed through the skin.

Citric Acid - Widely used in the cosmetic industry. Derived from citrus fruits by fermentation of crude sugars. Used as a preservative and to adjust acid-alkali balance. Citric acid is said to have antioxidant and toning properties. Citric acid is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids. AHA´s are used not only to reduce wrinkles but also to brighten your skin. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid (citrus), glycolic (sugar cane), malic (apples), and tartaric (grapes) acids.

Dead Sea Salts (Sodium Choride) Dried salt from the Dead Sea. Sea salt softens the water and can be used for cleansing, abrasive exfoliate and helps draw toxins from the body. Contains minerals from the ocean. People worldwide have used the healing power of salts baths for centuries. The minerals and trace elements deep clean and revitalize the body. That is why in countries everywhere people will come far and wide to bath in hot springs, mineral baths and the Dead Sea because of the unique mineral compositions of each place. The Dead Sea in Israel attracts visitors because it is the lowest point on the earth contains a high percentage of natural minerals. In many countries people with conditions labeled incurable have reduced the symptoms or completely resolved them after being treated with mineral hydrotherapy.

Distilled Water (Aqua) Water is the most widely used ingredient in cosmetics. Water is distilled by evaporating and then recondensing it to remove all the minerals, bacteria and other substances. The major component of all living things.

Glycerin, Vegetable - Glycerin is derived from plants and is a soothing, humectant which draws moisture from the air to the skin. Glycerin is an emollient, which makes the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Glycerin has a high hydrophilic (water) factor and a low lipophilic (fat) factor.

Grapefruit Seed Extract (Citrus grandis) Grapefruit seed extract is made from the dried, ground seeds and pulp of grapefruit. It is a natural preservative, antiseptic, a nontoxic, broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Contains water-soluble bioflavanoids.

Guar Gum (Cymopsia tetrogonoblbus) Made from the ground seed tissue of plants cultivated in India. It is used as a thickener and has 5 to 8 times the thickening properties of starch.

Honey - Honey is the sweet material taken from the nectar of flowers and manufactured by bees. Used since Egyptian times for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Honey is full of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and enzymes. Has an emollient property, is soothing and humectant. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Honey is cleansing and antibacterial. Bacteria cannot live in honey, which demonstrates its natural preservative properties. It leaves a micro thin protective film on the skin.

Hydrolyzed Castor Oil - Castor oil is derived from the seed of the castor plant. Hydrolyzed Castor oil has been turned partly into water through hydrolysis.

Hydrolyzed Silk Amino Acid - Silk is a fiber secreted by silk worms. Liquefied silk creates a mixture of amino acids. Amino acids are what the body uses to build proteins. Silk amino acids are said penetrate the skin and leave the skin silky smooth.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - A protein from wheat which has been turned partly into water through hydrolysis. Proteins are the nitrogen carrying constituents of living cells. Protein treatments are said to be beneficial to hair and skin. They add gloss, body and luster to hair. Proteins consist of giant chains of amino acids, the building blocks of life. The amino acid chains are joined chemically by a peptide bond. Plant proteins have excellent skin compatibility and deposit a protective film on the skin and hair. The film is smoothing and moisturizing.

Lanolin, Anhydrous  (Ovis aries) Lanolin is secreted from the sebaceous glands of sheep into their wool. Highly emollient, soothing and softening. Absorbs and holds water to the skin. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. Chemically a wax and not a fat. Extremely effective in preventing water loss from the skin.

Lecithin - Lecithin is derived from egg yokes, soybeans and corn. Has a softening and soothing effect on skin. A natural antioxidant and emollient. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Lecithin is made up of many different phospholipids, which occur naturally and are emulsifiers. Phospholipids are a principal component of human cell membranes. Their structures allow special protein molecules to selectively transport ions through membranes. Phospholipids look like triglycerides except that one of the fatty acid chains is substituted by the phosphor compound, phosphate ester. The phosphor compound increases the water affinity of glyceride, giving it the ability to work as an emulsifier.

Lecithin is a super skin restorative agent and moisturizer. It has the ability to penetrate the epidermis and carry substances to the right cell level. They also can form cell-like structures called liposomes. A liposome are formed when a group of phospholipids are placed on the skin; they spontaneously arrange themselves to match their water loving heads together and their oil loving tails together to form a microscopic sphere. These spheres are similar in construction to an actual cell membrane. They are then able to pass through the epidermis and act as a carrier of substances that attach themselves.

Phospholipids in studies were found to be hygroscopic, which means they attract water from the surrounding air and hold hydration in place. They help increase hydration levels in the skin without modifying the water loss rate of the skin. Phosphatidylcholine, which is one component of lecithin has a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acid chains, 70% linoleic acid and 6% linolenic acid. Which in Europe is referred to as Vitamin F. Vitamin F has been found to be critical for fat metabolism and for the release of fat from fatty tissues. A recent German study concluded that linoleic acid one of the most valuable ingredients in cosmetics. The study found that a shortage in linoleic acid increased acne formation. Also they found that the water loss form skin is inversely proportional to the linoleic acid content of the skin.

Menthol Crystals (Mentha arvensis) Gives a cool feeling to the skin and is used as a local anesthetic.

Milk, Powdered (Lactose) Lactose is present in the milk of mammals. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth with a hydrated appearance. An effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk proteins smooth, firm and soften the skin. Milk is high in hydrophilic (water) and lipophilic (fat) factors and has beneficial vitamins and sugars. It has excellent nutritive value, is packed with proteins, beneficial fats, vitamins, amino acids and calcium. It is easily absorbed into the skin. Milk has a long standing in beauty history. Many of the historic beauties testified to milks effectiveness with their faithful use of milk in their beauty regime. Cleopatra took aromatic milk baths, Emperor Nero´s wife Poppea bathed in milk and even Marie Antoinette used buttermilk to prevent wrinkles. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid, glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids. These treatments are not new at all. Cleopatra´s famous milk baths contained lactic acid, which removed the upper layer of the skin to revel smooth, new skin.

Milk, Goat (Lactose) Lactose from the milk of goats. Goat milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth. It is and effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth with a hydrated appearance. An effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk proteins smooth, firm and soften the skin. Milk is high in hydrophilic (water) and lipophilic (fat) factors and has beneficial vitamins and sugars. It has excellent nutritive value, is packed with proteins, beneficial fats, vitamins, amino acids and calcium. It is easily absorbed into the skin. Milk has a long standing in beauty history. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid, glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids. These treatments are not new at all. Cleopatra´s famous milk baths contained lactic acid, which removed the upper layer of the skin to revel smooth, new skin.

Oat Amino Acids - Amino Acids derived from oats. Amino acids are what the body uses to construct proteins. They are said to penetrate the skin. Oats are a rich source of vitamins and minerals. Oats are high in amino acids, are a humectant, skin soothing, relieve itching and act as a moisturizer. Proteins consist of giant chains of amino acids, the building blocks of life. The amino acid chains are joined chemically by a peptide bond. Plant proteins have excellent skin compatibility and deposit a protective film on the skin and hair. The film is smoothing and moisturizing.

Palmitate (Vitamin A) Palmitate is a mixture of solid organic acids obtained from fats. First isolated in 1909 from egg yolk. Vitamin A is an antioxidant that aids in the removal of free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin. Research shows that vitamin A encourages collagen production in the dermis, which causes the middle layers to plump out and efficiently retain moisture.

Prov-Vitamin B5 Complex -Panthenol Good for human tissues, used in skin and hair products.

Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA-Vitamin B Complex-Approved by FDA) A member of the Vitamin B family. Increases the skin’s resistance to burning and the damage of ultraviolet rays. Found in Vitamin B-complex. Some people are allergic to PABA.

Rosemary Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Contains antioxidants which are oil soluble. Undiluted it should be thick, sticky and green. Often sold diluted at 1% in 99% soybean oil. When you purchase this mixture you have well preserved soybean oil, but the properties are destroyed for preserving anything else. Before refrigeration was available people wrapped their meat in rosemary leaves to preserve it. Meats spoil partly because oxidation turns the fats rancid and rosemary retards spoilage. Its preservative value has made it a mainstay in herbal medicine.

Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) Cleans, deodorizes, softens and absorbs moisture. Leaves skin feeling silky smooth in bath preparations. Balances pH level and alkalinity. Soothing and relieves itching.

Sorbitol - Occurs naturally in ripe berries, cherries, plums, pears, apples, seaweed and algae. Used in hair and skin products as a humectant, a binder and because it gives skin and hair a velvety feeling.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E) Acts as a free radical scavenger, hinders the oxidizing process in the skin and promotes soft and supple skin. As an antioxidant it defends the skin. Helpful in reducing scars and promotes healing. Acts as a natural preservative for products. Obtained by the vacuum distillation of edible vegetable oils. Vitamin E oil is an emollient. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin.

Turbinado Raw Sugar (Sucrose) Known as a demulcent, which is a substance used to relieve pain in inflamed or irritated mucous surfaces. A simple organic exfoliating material.

Xanthum Gum (Polysaccharide gum) Xanthum gum is a polysaccharide (natural sugar) fermented from corn sugar. Often used in the food industry to thicken and stabilize products. It can be added to thicken a cosmetic product. It is difficult to work with since it does not fully dissolve in water.

Zinc Oxide (Flowers of Zinc) Used medicinally as an astringent, antiseptic, skin protective, encourages healing. Works as an antiperspirant. Zinc Oxide is a physical UV filter.

Natural Waxes

Beeswax (Apis mellifera) Beeswax comes from the honeycomb of virgin bees. Bees process honey form the nectar and then convert it into wax. Ten pounds of honey produces one pound of wax. It has a honey like fragrance. It is used as an emulsifier and stiffener.

Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia antisyphilitica) Caldelilla wax is taken from the candelilla plant a desert shrub that is native to Mexico and Texas. Is used as a thickener in products. Can be used in the same proportions in a recipe as beeswax.

Carnauba Wax Flakes (Copernicia prunifera) The exudate from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm tree. The melting point for this wax is 181 degrees F and is an extremely hard wax.

Jasmine Wax (Jasminum grandiflorum) A floral wax which is derived from the process of making jasmine absolute. Once the absolute and the concrete have been extracted a wax remains. Used as a fragrant thickener in products.

Jojoba Wax Beads (Simmondsia chinensis) A semisolid fraction of jojoba oil. Use as a gentle natural exfoliate.

Mimosa Wax (Acacia decurrens) Derived from trees, shrubs and herbs that are native to tropical areas. A reddish yellow solid that has a long lasting odor. Pleasant smelling and often used in perfumes and self tanning products.

Clays

Kaolin Clay (China Clay) Originally came from the Kaoling Hill in Kiangsi Providence in China. A white powder insoluble in water and absorbent. Hydrated aluminum silicate. Absorbs oils secreted from the skin. Clays are used to draw our impurities and toxins through absorption. Great for insect bites and stings. Composed of silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc and other minerals. Clays remove old sebum that is clogged in pores. They also remove environmental poisons left of the skin. White clay has electromagnetic qualities and attracts oils and particles left on the skin.

Green Clay (Montmorillonite) Derived from volcanic deposits, is the richest in mineral compositions and is the most drawing of all clays available. The finest of clays. Rich in calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium. It energizes the connective tissue. It is antiseptic and healing. It gently stimulates and is effective in increasing the lymph flow and circulation, enabling oxygen and speeding the elimination of wastes. Green clay has a high mineral content.

Pink Clay (Montmorillonite) Rich in trace elements, used to detoxify and cleanse the face and body. Clays are used to draw our impurities and toxins through absorption. Great for insect bites and stings. Composed of silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc and other minerals. Clays remove old sebum that is clogged in pores. They also remove environmental poisons left of the skin.

Essential Oils

Benzoin (Styrax benzoin) A balsamic resin from benzoin. Used as a preservative. Has skin protecting qualities and is good for dry cracked skin.

Calendula (Calendula officianalis) Calendula Essential oil is infused into our oils to increase the healing properties of our massage and body oils. Calendula has antiseptic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, healing, and soothing properties for all skin types. German health authorities recommend it for topical use in minor wounds and ulcers because it is believed to increase collagen metabolism. Anti-hemorrhage, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, fungicidal. Useful for burns, cuts, eczema, oily greasy skin, bruises, soothes skin, inflammations, insect bites, rashes, wounds, cracked dry skin, varicose veins. Stretch marks, diaper rash, regulates menstrual cycle, immune boosting, fluid retention, anti viral. Said to effect dreams and sleep. Shown in laboratory test to induce granulation, which is an integral part of the heal process for wounds.

Source: Marigold Flowers

Carrot Seed Essential Oil (Daucus carota) Revitalizing, toning and nourishing for skin. Increases elasticity, aids in scars boils, ulcers, acne, irritated skin, roacea, dermatitis, eczema, revitalizes baal layer, aids regeneration of cells. Used in the Three Stage Acne Regime. Contains vitamins, minerals, beta-carotene. Rejuvenating and reduces scarring. Rich in Vitamin A, which can be absorbed into the skin. Vitamin A and beta-carotene are antioxidants. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin.

Cypress Essential Oil (Cupressus sempervirens) Increases circulation, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, menopausal problems, menstrual problems, fluid retention, cellulite, rheumatism, arthritis, tension, nervousness and sinus congestion. Astringent, antispasmodic, restorative, calmative, antibiotic. Reduces excess sweating and overly oily complexions. Mature, oily skin, acne, stimulates cell regeneration. Immune stimulant, may increase pancreatic stimulant, can act as female hormone stimulant. Induces menstruation, eases all hormone imbalances, decongest prostate. Antidepressant, increases mental energy and attentiveness by reducing drowsiness and irritability. The fragrance is comforting and is said to aid in smoothing transitions, especially the loss of a loved one and the ending of relationships.

Scent: Fresh, woody, clear, light, a clean scent, middle to base note. Source: Branches

Lemon Essential Oil (Citrus limonum) General tonic, infections, detoxification, general fatigue, obesity, balances sebum, acne, boils, warts. Increases shine and growth of hair and nails. Reduces physical exhaustion, digestion, rheumatism, arthritis, colds, flu and all respiratory disorders. Antibiotic, sedative, astringent, stimulates immune system, antidepressant, stimulant, antiseptic, and calmative. Perhaps the most effective oil in a room spray for disinfecting the room air. Promotes weight loss, reduces cellulite, useful for oily complexions, hair and skin blemishes. Strengthens epidermis function, aids epidermal circulation, gland stimulant and purification. Stimulates connective tissue, elastin and collagen. Lightens skin pigment. Raises blood pressure, reduces hypertensive and diabetic accidents, reduces blood sugar. Balances stomach acidity, endocrine stimulant. Induces labor when overdue. Stimulant to brain, all sense organs and Parasympathetic Nervous System. Used in Japan to increase workers productivity and concentration. Some value found in reducing nightmares. Do not use in sun products.

Scent: Light citrus scent, clean, sweet, sugary, top note. Source: Peel

Peppermint Essential Oil (Mentha piperita) Headaches, migraines, nausea, fatigue, apathy, coughs, digestive problems, muscular pain, nerve pain, sinus congestion, shock, faintness, travel sickness, mental tiredness, poor circulation, stimulating, and strengthening. Antiseptic, antibiotic, anti-infectious, stimulant, tonic, anti-parasitic, antiviral, analgesic and decongestant. Aphrodisiac, cooling, tonic and stimulant to heart rate and brainwaves. Disinfects the air. Ringworm, detoxification, cellulite. Asthma, sinusitis, muscular aches and pains, heart tonic, cardiac fatigue, constricts capillaries. Menstrual cramps, discourages milk flow, nausea, balances Sympathetic Nervous System, calms mental racing and depression. Source: Leaf and Flowering Tops

Tea Tree Essential Oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) Rashes, insect bites, nail fungus, dermatitis, ringworm, thrush, head lice, sore throats, boils, congestion, arthritis, cold sores, fatigue, useful for a wide spectrum of infections. Anti-infectious, antibiotic, balsamic, antifungal, antiviral, anti-parasitic, anti-inflammatory, expectorant, stimulates immune system, analgesic and antiseptic. Hastens healing of wounds, diaper rash, acne, ringworm and insect bites. Protects skin during radiation treatment. Encourages regeneration of scar tissue and reduces swelling. Acts as an oil-controlling agent. High germicidal value. Has the property to penetrate pus and by mixing with it, the pus liquefies which causes it to slough off, leaving a healthy surface. Asthma, coughs, throat infections, stimulates blood circulation and lymphatic circulation.

Scent: Sharp, spicy, warm with medicinal tones, top note. Source: Branches

Herbal Extracts and Infusions

Chamomile Flowers (Matricaria recutita) A member of the daisy family. Used to treat dermatitis, minor skin irritations, and inhibits inflammation. In one study it was found that chamomile was 60% as active as a topical corticosteroid cream. Another study using patients with atopic dermatitis, it was found to be nearly as effective as hydrocortisone. German herbalist called it alles zutraut which means "capable of anything".

Chickweed Herb (Stellaria media) Chickweed is useful for sores, abscesses, skin irritations and rashes. Chickweed contains saponins, which exert an anti-inflammatory action similar to cortisone.

Comfrey Root (Symphytum officinale) One of the most useful and valuable plants in cosmetics and medicine. The Physician´s Desk Reference (1970 p. 956) states that "allantoin (comfrey´s active ingredient) has been reported to liquefy pus and necrotic protein thus accelerating debridement of lesions and denuded areas." It is said to regenerate aging tissues.

Green Tea Extract (Camellia sinensis) From the leaves of the plants dried, cured and extracted into ethyl alcohol. Used in cosmetics to reduce the puffiness around the eyes. Has astringent properties due to tannic acid content. Green tea contains compounds that have an antioxidant effect. It is thought that it has anticancerous effects which have been determined by test tube but not proven in human disease prevention yet. It is thought that the active antioxidants may be able to inhibit the cancer process initiated by the sun´s ultraviolet B radiation. AT Case Western Reserve University topical administration of green tea resulted in a reduction of tumors that occurred following UVB radiation.

Kelp Norway Extract (Asco phyllium nodosom) When added to the bath it smoothes the skin. The Indians of Sitka, Alaska to treat earaches and poultices for bruises and cuts. Seaweed was the original source of iodine.

Marshmallow Root Extract (Althea officinalis) Marshmallow root is emollient, softening and soothing. It has been used for inflammations, sore skin, blemishes, bruises, strains and sprains. It has been used for hundreds of years to heal wounds.

Nettle Leaf (Urtica dioica) Helps stimulate the skin and improves circulation and aids with arthritis. Can be used in hair preparations to aid in stimulating hair growth and improves the condition of the scalp. Rich in minerals and plant hormones.

Oatstraw Extract (Avena sativa) Soothing and softening effects on the skin.

Passion Flower (Passiflora incarnata) Has a quieting and soothing effect as well as cleansing properties. Indians used it for swellings and sore eyes.

Slippery Elm (Ulmus fulva) Extracted from the bark of the North American elm. Good for skin eruptions and cutaneous diseases. Is emollient and has a slightly astringent property.

Wild Yam Root (Dioscorea villosa) Wild Yam root was first discovered by Japanese researchers in 1936. They found that several Mexican yam species produced the steroid diosgenin. Progesterone is produced from these steroid drugs. Mexican women had used wild yam as a contraceptive for centuries. Today the most popular and widely used birth control pill in the world is derived from wild yam. American herbalist have used wild yam for decades for painful menstruation, ovarian pain, cramps and problems with child birth. Wild yam root has also been used for gallbladder pain, to lower cholesterol and blood pressure.

Floral and Distillate Waters

Chamomile (Matricaria recutitia) A member of the daisy family. Used to treat dermatitis, minor skin irritations, and inhibits inflammation. In one study it was found that chamomile was 60% as active as a topical corticosteroid cream. Another study using patients with atopic dermatitis, it was found to be nearly as effective as hydrocortisone. German herbalist called it alles zutraut which means "capable of anything".

Cucumber Distillate (Cucumis sativus) Gives skin a cool soothing feeling to the skin. A mild astringent, aids in removing dead skin cells, alleviates inflammations and irritants. Cleopatra was said to have used cucumber juice to preserve her skin.

Lavender Hydrosol/Distillate/Water (Lavendula Angustifolia) Aids in relieving irritation due to dermatitis, eczema, sunburn, insect bites, rashes, pimples, black heads and light forms of acne. Good for all skin types and is relaxing and sedating.

Rose Hydrosol/Distillate/Water (Rosa damascena) Rose Water is the byproduct of producing rose essential oil. It has skin softening, toning, soothing and healing properties. Was used during Victorian times to soothe the skin.

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) Made from the leaves and twigs a common wild scrub found in the woods. Witch hazel was used by the Native Americans. In the 1840’s, a Oneida Medicine man introduced it to a patent medicine entrepreneur. It has a long history of traditional and alternative medicine uses. Also used in the treatment of hemorrhoids, burns and fevers. Known to be soothing skin freshener, used as a local anesthetic, astringent, pore tightening and anti-inflammatory. Relieves itching, and soothes skin irritations. Witch hazel also is good for stings. The active ingredients are tannins.

Natural Source Ingredients

Acetamide MEA

Used as a stabilizer in hair conditioners and skin creams.

Ammonium Laureth Sulphate

A compound used to break up and remove oils and soil from the skin and hair. Produced by combining Ammonium salts derived from a colorless, crystalline product made from coconut oil with organic ether obtained from the distillation of alcohol.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

Ammonium salts derived from a colorless, crystalline compound made from coconut oil. Used for its foaming properties and acidic pH values. A mild anionic surfactant, meaning it has a negative charged ion that reduces the surface tension of a product when dissolved in a solution. A reduced surface tension gives a product better absorption into the skin and promotes spreading of the product.

Cocamide TEA

A fatty acid derived from the fatty acid of coconut oil and glycerin. Commonly used in shampoos, conditioners and shower gels as a thickener and foam boaster.

Cocoamidopropyl Betaine

A coconut oil, alcohol and betaine compound. A salt derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil. Betaine occurs commonly in beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam boaster and conditioner. Coconut oil is a highly saturated fat semi-solid oil derived from the kernels of coconuts. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances. Commonly used in shampoos and conditioners for its cleansing, thickening and foam boasting properties.

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Salt of fatty acids of coconut oil. An atom of hydrogen and an atom of oxygen introduced into the fatty acids of coconut oil to make it more soluble.

Cocopolyglucoside Citrate

Coconut compounds with sugar, alcohol and the salts or esters of citric acid. Citric acid is derived from the fermentation of the crude sugars in citrus fruit. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.

Cocopolyglucoside Tartate

Coconut compounds with sugar, alcohol, and tartate. Tartate is available from many fruits but is mainly the by-product of wine making. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.

Cetearyl Alcohol

An emulsifying wax produced from a mixture of fatty alcohols. Made from cetyl and stearyl alcohol’s which together form an occlusive film to keep skin moisture from evaporating. They give hair and skin a velvety feeling. This is a long chain alcohol that actually comes in a powder/crystalline form, almost waxy and is used to add body and allow for combability in hair products.

Cetearyl Glucoside

A compound of glucose and cetearyl alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol is from fatty alcohol’s. It helps skin and hair retain natural moisture and imparts a velvety feeling. Glucose occurs naturally in sugars. May be naturally derived. Cetearyl alcohol was produced to chemically resemble sperm whale oil or spermaceti oil. Which was a popular ingredient in creams that contributed to the extinction of sperm whales.

Emulsifying Wax NF (NF stands for National Foundary)

Plant based, used to create a bond between water and oil. A critical ingredient in lotions and cream since there is no other natural product that can create a smooth texture. An emulsifier is a chemical compound that joins oil and water and forms a stable mixture called an emulsion. The molecular structure of an emulsifier molecule is able to attract both a water and an oil molecule at different sites at the same time. Emulsifiers manufactured from plant fats have one or two fatty acids removed leaving one or two hydrophilic sites vacant on the glycerin molecule. The vacant locations on the glycerin molecule have a high affinity to water while the remaining fatty acid tails attract oily compounds. An emulsifier molecules act as intermediary to bind water and oil. The resulting compounds are called monogycerides and diglycerides which represent an important class of natural emulsifiers.

Magnesium Sulfate USP (Epsom Salts)

A soaking aid for minor sprains, muscle aches and bruises. A water softener and bath additive.

Methyl Paraben (Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate) *

Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate comes from the combination of denatured wood alcohol and benzoic acid. Benzoic acid occurs naturally in cherry bark, raspberries, tea, anise and cassia bark. It is neutral, nontoxic, safe to use, nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It is one of the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics since it is stable in any pH balance, is broad spectrum and water soluble. * Note ~ there is controversary regarding the use of paraben preservatives and it is highly recommended that you do research and develop your own opinion.

Polysorbate 20

(Vegetable Emulsifier)Widely used emulsifier, a vicious oily liquid derived from lauric acid. Lauric acid is a common constituent of coconut oil. Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant, meaning it has no electrical charge. A surfactant is a wetting agent that lowers the water surface tension permitting it to penetrate more easily.

Polysorbate 60

Liquid Oil-in-Water Emulsifier. A synthetic, consisting of sorbitol, ethylene oxide & stearic acid (stearic acid is derived from vegetable oil) It is soluble in water & alcohols, insoluble in oils. The HLB VALUE: 14.9 (gives oil-in-water emulsions). Nnon-ionic emulsifier (enables water & oil to mix; effect increased when combined with cetyl alcohol or sorbitan stearate), dispersing agent, thickener antistat, solubilizer & stabilizer of essential oils.
May need to be warmed to melt before use in lotions, creams, skin cleansers etc.

Polysorbate 80

LIQUID OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIFIER
A non-ionic synthetic emulsifier, consisting of sorbitol, ethylene oxide, oleic acid (oleic acid is derived from vegetable oil). Soluble in water & alcohols, insoluble in oils. HLB VALUE: 15 (gives oil-in-water emulsions).
A dispersing agent, solubilizer, antistat, solubilizer & stabilizer of essential oils. Can be used as is in body washes, hair shampoos, lotions, creams, bath oils, etc.

Propylene Glycol

Often derived from vegetable glycerin or seaweed. The most common moisture carrying ingredient other than water used in cosmetics because it moisturizes better than glycerin. Is used as a wetting agent and surfactant which gives a product better absorption and promotes spreading of the product on the skin. Propylene Glycol is an emollient. It can penetrate the outermost layer of the skin cells and carry other beneficial products deeper into the epidermis. According to the AMA´s committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.

The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, within the Public Health Services for Toxin Substances and Disease Registry have conducted studies and have shown that propylene glycol is a completely safe product in cosmetics.

Propyl Paraben (Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate) *

Widely used in cosmetics as preservative, bacteria and fungus killer. Esters of p-Hydroxybenzoate prepared from p-bromophenol. Meaning that hydrogen gas was added under high pressure a liquid oil in order to semisolid fats. Hydroxybenzoate is from benzoic acid, which occurs naturally in cherry bark, raspberries, tea, anise and cassia bark Propyl Paraben is neutral, nontoxic, safe to use, nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It is one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics since it is stable in any pH balance, broad spectrum and water soluble. * Note: It is recommended that you do your own research regarding some ingredients that you may find controversial.

Sodium Chloride (Sea Salts)

Sea salt used as an astringent, antiseptic, cleanser and adjusts viscosity.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) *

Sodium Laureth Sulfate is the sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl alcohol. Which means salt of sulfuric acid has been added to the crystalline compound produced from coconut in order to control the acid-alkali balance; and ethyl and oxygen are mixed and added to make it more soluble in water.

All aspects of public thinking should be taken into consideration when making decisions about ingredients ~ To that end, the following is being included.

"There has been a huge scare centered on the use of SLS and SLES, which stems from the incorrect reporting by Neways Web sites of a study done at the Medical College of Georgia by Dr. Keith Green. He states that he was not only misquoted but also the majority of the misinformation s completely false. Also, the American Cancer Society has stated that SLS and SLES do not cause cancer. They have searched all the recognized medical journals and have found no articles linking cancer and SLS or SLES." * Note: I always recommend doing your own research if in doubt about anything and form your own educated opinion :D

Sodium Stearate

A compound of 92.82% stearic acid with sodium salts. Stearic acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in butter acids, tallow and oils.

Soyamidopropyl Betaine

A soybean oil, alcohol and betaine compound. Betaine is complicated organic detergents that occur naturally in sugar beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam boaster and conditioner. Soybean is extracted from the seeds of soybeans. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.

Stearalkonium Chloride

Adds shine to hair and improves the ability to comb through hair. Used also as a preservative.

Stearic Acid

A vegetable derivative used to stiffen and stabilize lotions and creams. Occurs naturally in vegetable fats. A white, waxy, natural fatty acid.